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Hvammstangi is the main village on the Vatnsnes peninsula in north-west Iceland, a quiet fishing community that has become the country’s unofficial capital of seal watching.

The Icelandic Seal Centre explains where and how to spot the colonies that haul out along the coast, and the drive around Vatnsnes leads to the striking Hvítserkur sea stack, shaped like a drinking troll or dragon. The Kolugljúfur canyon lies just inland.