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Kerlingarfjöll is a volcanic mountain range in the centre of Iceland’s Highlands, rising to around 1,477 metres and straddling the Kjölur route (F35). The mountains are a visual feast of rust, yellow, green, and purple rhyolite rock, permanently threaded with fumaroles and hot springs that cloud the valleys in steam even on warm summer days. The area’s name, ‘Old Woman Mountains’, refers to a legendary female troll said to have been turned to stone here.

Ásgarðsá, a hot river running through the range, provides natural bathing pools, and a network of marked hiking trails of varying difficulty crosses the area, from easy valley walks to demanding ridge scrambles with sweeping views over the Hofsjökull glacier. The diversity of colours in the landscape — especially in the Hveradalir geothermal valley — is among the most dramatic in Iceland.

The Kerlingarfjöll mountain resort offers huts, a guesthouse, and a restaurant in summer (roughly mid-June to mid-September), and the access road off the F35 requires a 4WD. The area is entirely closed in winter. Clear days in late July and August are ideal for hiking, when the ground is dry and the wildflowers are in bloom alongside the steaming vents.